How I did it: Blood Bowl Troll

   - I don't do High Fives.

Branch

   A goblin team needs a Troll. Fact. Goblins are weak, and break easily, so a big boy on the line of scrimmage helps a lot, making almost possible to finish a game without 9-8 KOs or so. Not winning a game, for sure, but maybe holding enough to score a TD (that is, believe me, one of the most satisfying things a man can experience, since goblins are not for competitive play) (currently I scored just one in my whole career with them, and I'm feeling so accomplished!).

   Not for competitive play, absolutely; but for fun. A lot of fun; and a Troll makes its own part in the process... you can try to score a one-turn TD throwing the goblin holding the ball, directly over other team's players, straight to their end zone. Of course, you have to be lucky, the Troll can always simply eat the goblin, spitting out the ball... ah, it's so hard to hang fire when you've got a tasty greenling so close to the mouth, who could say otherwise?

   As you know, if you have read something around from this blog, I am a real fan of greenskins so, when GW made the Blood Bowl Troll model I fell in love; and this time I've decided to use lighter tones for the skins, something I felt would be better fitting on a river-drooling beast with a dead instead of the brain (it's not related, isn't it?).

   Let's see how!

Part 1. Bones, Leathers, Ball, Features.

  Primer in Incubi Darkness. This helps to get good dark green foundations.

   Basecoat the back scales with Warpstone Glow.

    Drybrush them with Niblet Green.

   Coat the leather and wood parts with Dryad Bark.

  Use Niblet Green again to highlight the ball.

   Using Rakarth Flesh (one of mine inseparable color), coat light leather.

   Base bones, skulls, spines and claws with Ushabti Bone.

   Using Karak Stone, add a light drybrush on the wood.

   Then make the same, in heavier war, with Averland Sunset.

   Using Averland again coat the elbow's armor piece, the shoulderpads etc.

   Time for metals: cover all the parts with Leadbelcher.

   To fit my Talisa's Revenants I painted the helmet used like toggle with Sotek Green.

   Write on the number you like.

      Add scratches on the dark leather using Steel Legion Drab and Karak Stone.

   Drybrush with the same colors, tapping.

   Wash all other basecoated parts with Reikland Fleshshade.

   Then tapping on the yellow parts with Dryad Bark. You can find an alternative tutorial for the dark worn-leather, slightly different and easier (using washes too), here.

   Define the wood cartel washing only the edge with Agrax Earthshade, leaving the number brighter. Remember to use Medium to mitigate washes any time you need.

   Add Typhus Corrosion on the metals you want to weather, like the trap closed on its foot, or the mail hanging from the shoulderpad.

   Tapping gently using Ryza Rust on that parts. Use always a dedicated brush for these two processes.

   Reprise bones and skulls, as well as spines and claws, with Ushabti Bone and than layer them with Screaming Skull.. 

   I made it in two different ways:

  1. Spines and Claws: just follow the spines (and claws) and paint the upper part of them, using a good amount of water on your brush. Do the same, on a smaller part, near to the tip, with the second color. You can check my Megaboss on Maw-krusha post, for further details.

  2. Skulls and Bones: you can do it as above, but if you prefer a better resolution and diversification between the two features try to do as follow. Huge amount of water on your brush with color, but keep it scarcely loaded out. I mean you only have to work with the very tip of the brush, and the brush has to be very thin as well.

   Leave a very small amount of color in the center of the skull, for example, and then move it. Repeat the process with the second color, until you are satisfied. In this way you should obtain a really realistic outcome, producing a sensation of "ancient" and eroded.

Part 2. Skin.

   Ah, my favorite part.

   Basecoat our friend with Ogryn Camo.

   Mingle Bieltan Green with Medium, in a 40-60 ratio. Wash all the skin with the mix.

   For the goblin - and, generally, a different way to make green skin - I refer you to my Megaboss post.

   Reprise all the skin, leaving only recesses, with Ogryn Camo. High amount of water is suggested.
   Put a small amount of Fuegan Orange mingled with Medium within the ears, on the nose's tip and lips.

   Now the real process.

   1) You need Pure White and Ogryn Camo. Start brigthening up green with small amount of white, keeping the ratio near to 5-95, or 10-90, and paint in the same way of the bones' layering explained before. Put a small amount of color (of course always mixed with a good portion of water) in the center of the area you want to highlight, like belly or biceps, and move it. 

   You have to use only the very tip of your brush, and the brush has to be the best you can afford, also very thin.

   2) Covering progressively less surface, layer increasing the amount of pure white, keeping ratio around 20-80, or little more. Repeat the process.

   3) Using Krieg Khaki (a beautiful color) do the same for the face's features and for the most extreme part of all the rest of skin. In the first layer you can use it without white, but with water; then you can add a very small amount of white too during the subsequent applications.

   4) Reprise with Fuegan Orange mixed with medium all the "red" part, such as ears, nose, lips, or the lower part of the belly.

   Final Model:

   That's it!

   Thanks for reading, stay tuned for the next one, about goblin team!